The D-pad, home, back and menu always work — those go straight to your Fire TV stick or cube over your Wi-Fi network. Volume and power are different: a Fire TV Stick can't do either one itself. The remote in your drawer sends both over infrared, straight to the television, bypassing the stick entirely. So for volume and power, Only Fire TV Remote talks to your television directly — same Wi-Fi network, same room.
| Brand | From | Status |
|---|---|---|
| Samsung | 2016 | Verified on hardware |
| LG | 2014 | Supported, not yet verified |
| Philips | 2014 | Supported, not yet verified |
| Sony | 2013 | Supported, not yet verified |
| Roku TV | — | Supported, not yet verified |
Verified means we ran every command against a real device of that brand and watched it work. Supported, not yet verified means the app is built against each manufacturer's own published protocol — the same ones behind long-running open-source integrations — but we don't own that hardware ourselves yet. If your TV connects and volume or power misbehaves, the in-app report below is what gets it fixed.
A bare Fire TV Stick plugged into a TV that isn't one of the brands above still gives you the D-pad, home, back, menu and playback controls — just not volume or power.
Four of the five brands above have never run on real hardware. If you own an LG, Philips, Sony or Roku TV, the most useful thing you can do is open Settings → Report a problem, tap Build report, and paste it wherever you're already talking to us. It contains local network addresses, device names and error codes — never your pairing token, PIN or password — and nothing is ever sent automatically.